“Yeah, but why go out?” She gestured at the sand. “It’s my first lesson. Shouldn’t we just do everything out of the water? You know, to make sure I’m ready to surf? I feel like that’s the right way to go about things.”
“Yeah? You suddenly a pro?”
“I’m just making a suggestion.”
“Well, your suggestion sucks,” I shot back. “Ain’t gonna be ready if you don’t get in. You won’t learn until you’re out there.”
She caught her bottom lip between her teeth and shook her head.
“Babe, for real, if you’re worried I won’t be touching you like I’ve been doing for the past twenty minutes just ’cause you’ll be in the water, don’t be.” I smiled at her. “There’s a lot I can do in that ocean.”
Her eyes narrowed. She released her bottom lip and started moving toward me with purpose.
“Just make sure when you start begging, you do it with your head above a wave. I don’t wanna miss it,” she said when she reached my side.
Water splashed under her feet.
I chuckled, and we both continued out. She was moving slow, staying a foot behind me, but I figured it was because of her suit and her not wanting anything to shift.
Figured that was the reason for her hesitation going out initially, too.
I dropped the board in the water when we got in waist deep, keeping hold of it. “Go ahead and get on. I’m gonna let you ride a few in on your stomach first before we get you poppin’ up,” I instructed, looking down the board at her.
Tori had her arms pulled in close to her chest and was watching the water, eyes darting left and right, body shaking, letting the waves move her instead of bracing and keeping herself steady.
Jesus. She was really worried about flashing people in that thing.
“Legs.”
Her head jerked up and those pale blues connected, then she grabbed on to the board like she needed it for safety and slid her grip down, moving deeper into the water and getting closer to me.
“You ready?” I asked, watching her do these weird, jerking movements every time a wave rolled under us.
She nodded quickly. “What do I do?”
“Just get on. I’ll push you in.” Looking out, I saw a bigger wave coming at us. I gripped the board to keep hold of it and instructed, “Wait. Watch this wave,” then I ducked under the water while keeping my grip on the board so I wouldn’t lose it, not counting on Legs to keep hold of it and figuring she’d be relying on me to do it and worrying about herself.
The wave rolled above my head.
I popped up, wiped the water out of my eyes, brushed my hair back, and braced for her to climb on.
But she wasn’t there.
“Legs.”
I looked left and then right, thinking maybe she’d drifted a little.
I studied the crowd. All the people around me. There were a lot.
I didn’t see her.
“Legs!” I yelled out, searching harder.
Nothing. My chest got tight.
“TORI!”
I let go of my board and moved around, peering behind groups who were wading together and looking for blond hair.
The water was crowded. And when you’re panicked and looking for someone, you don’t look as well as you should.
You skim for features. You don’t linger. You try and cover as much area as you can.
That was why I didn’t see her until I did, which was a good five seconds after my heart crawled into my throat.
Relief flooded me as I focused on her. I let out a breath.
Tori was hunched over in knee-deep water a good twenty feet away, facing the ocean, crouched low and curled in on herself like she was shivering and trying to stay warm.
I rushed over to her, forgetting about my board. “Jesus. Are you okay?” I asked. “You scared the shit outta me. I couldn’t see you.”
Staying in that wrapped-up position, Tori shook her head in answer, keeping her chin tucked.
She was a little rattled by the wave. I understood that. And I figured the least I could do would be to offer up some comfort to help settle her down.
“That happens to everybody,” I said, speaking nothing but honesty. “Some of these waves are brutal. Come on. You’re all right.” I reached to help her up, but she jerked away and hunched over even farther, nearly folding in half. “Legs.”
“My top,” she said, voice lowered and anxious. She tipped her head back, and I saw her gaze was wild with panic. “I lost it. I—I … I’m naked. I lost my top.”
My eyes went wide.
I looked at the way her arms were crossed over her chest, making an X. Her hands were curled into fists and tucked against her neck.
“Oh, shit,” I laughed.
Tori gaped at me.
“Sorry. It’s just”—I rubbed at my jaw—“I told you that suit was a bad idea.”
“Would you help me, please?” she cried. “I don’t know what to do.”
“All right. Relax.”
I stepped in front of her and bent down, getting close. Waves crashed on my back.
“Feelin’ the need to say a little prayer for this. Might suck for you, but honest to God, this might be the best day of my life,” I joked, wanting to lighten up the mood a little for her since she was still looking shaken up from the wave.
Her lip was trembling. I watched drops of water run down her cheek and felt my brow tighten.
Was she crying? Shit.