"Yes?"
I turned around. The man who stood there looked as out of place as I did. He was huge, maybe three hundred pounds, wearing a caftan that made him look like a pop-open tent with a built-in aluminum frame. He was in his sixties with a face that needed to be taken up. His eyelids drooped and he had a sagging mouth and a big double chin. What was left of his hair had slipped down around his ears. I wasn't certain, but I thought he made a rude noise under his skirt.
"I'd like to talk to you about a past-due account," I said.
"I got a bookkeeper handles that. She's out."
"Someone left a twelve-thousand-dollar lynx coat here to be cleaned and recut. She never paid her bill."
"So?"
This guy didn't have to get by on good looks alone. He was gracious too.
"Is Jacques here?" I asked.
"That's who you're talking to. I'm Jack. Who are you?"
"Kinsey Millhone," I said. I took out a card and handed it to him. "I'm a private investigator from California."
"No fooling," he said. He stared at the card and then at me. He glanced around suspiciously like this might be a "Candid Camera" gag. "What do you want with me?"
"I'm looking for information about the woman who brought the coat in."
"You got a subpoena?"
"No."
"You got the money she owes?"
"No."
"Then what are you bothering me for? I don't have time for this. I got work to do."
"Mind if I talk to you while you do it?"
He stared at me. His breathing made that wheezing sound that fat people sometimes make. "Yeah, sure. Why not? Suit yourself."
I followed him into the big cluttered back room, taking in his scent. He smelled like something that spent the winter in a cave.
"How long have you been cutting fur?" I asked.
He turned and looked at me as if I were speaking in tongues.
"Since I was ten," he said finally. "My father cut fur and his father before him."
He indicated a stool and I sat, setting my big canvas handbag at my feet. There was a long worktable to my right, with a coarse brown-paper pattern laid out on it. The right front portion of a mink coat had been put together and he was apparently still working on it. The wall on the left was lined with hanging paper patterns and there were various quite ancient-looking sewing machines to my right. Every available surface was covered with pelts, scraps, unfinished coats, books, magazines, boxes, catalogues. Two dress forms stood side by side, like twins posing self-consciously for a photograph. The place reminded me of a shoe-repair shop, all leather smell and machinery and the feel of craftsmanship. He took up the coat and examined it closely, then reached for a cutting device with a nasty curved blade. He glanced up at me. His eyes were the same shade of brown as the mink.
"So what do you want to know?"
"You remember the woman?"
"I know the coat. Naturally, I remember the woman who brought it in. Mrs. Boldt, right?"
"That's right. Can you tell me when you saw her last?"
He dropped his gaze back to the fur. He made a cut. He crossed to one of the machines, motioning me to follow. He sat down on a stool and began to sew. I could see now that what had looked at first like an old-fashioned Singer was actually a machine especially designed for the stitching of fur. He lined up the two cut pieces vertically, fur-side in, and caught them in the grip of two flat metal disks, like large silver dollars set rim to rim. The machine whipped the leather edges together with an overhand stitch while he deftly tucked the fur out of the way so it wouldn't get caught in the seam. The whole maneuver took about ten seconds. He spread the seam, smoothing it with his thumb on the backside. There were maybe sixty similar cuts in the leather, a quarter-inch apart. I wanted to ask him what he was doing, but I didn't want to distract him.
"She came in in March and said she wanted to sell the coat."
"How'd you know it was really hers?"
"Because I asked for some identification and the bill of sale." The irritable tone was back, but I ignored it.
"Did she say why she was selling it?"
"Said she was bored with it. She wanted mink, maybe blond, so I offered her credit against something in the store, but she said she wanted the cash, so I told her I'd see what I could do. I wasn't that anxious to pay cash for a used coat. Ordinarily, I don't deal in secondhand fur. There's no market for it here and it's a pain in the ass."